FHMA Day 11: Hitting the Gulf Course

QUICK FACTS

• Where We Started: Pensacola, Fla.
• Where We Ended: New Orleans, La.
• Miles Driven: 268 (2,358 total)
• New States: Mississippi, Louisiana
• Total States: 8 (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana)

THE DAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

We saw our first rain Saturday in Atlanta, but it wasn't until Monday that the weather officially slowed down the FHMA party. Neither Joan nor I had ever been to the Golf Coast before, so the goal was to hug the coastline as much as possible between Pensacola and New Orleans. But we awoke to torrential rain in Pensacola, scrapping the intended drive out to the Gulf Islands National Seashore and the planned stop at Gulf State Park in Alabama. We tried to wait out the rain at the hotel, which meant we also got a later start than anticipated. Even the shoreline drives we did do were severely hampered by low visibility and steady rain that pounded the car all day long.

This is what we saw out the front window. All day long.

Although we always intended to go to the National Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola, we ended up staying longer, because of the weather and the fact our only other indoor option in Pensacola -- the slightly bizarre T.T. Wentworth Florida State Museum -- is closed on Mondays.

Luckily, the extra time at the naval aviation museum was well worth it. It's located within the Pensacola Naval Air Station, so getting there required an ID check and a special dashboard pass. When we pulled up to the museum, I was disappointed at its small size. Considering it's a museum of -- oh, I don't know, LARGE NAVAL AIRCRAFT -- it didn't look like there was room for much. But, man, I've never seen a museum use every inch of space so skillfully.

Despite the impression this picture may give, when you're in the museum, it doesn't feel cramped.
 

The aircraft at the museum ranges from old sea planes, to dirigibles, to WWII planes, to modern naval military craft. In addition, there are displays covering major naval battles such as Midway, the Coral Sea and Guadalcanal. It's a well laid-out museum, and could easily occupy half a day. Here are a few other photos.

 
Me in the cockpit of an old jet. What you can't see is how hard Joan is laughing about how long it took me to get into this goddamn thing. What she didn't anticipate was how much longer it was going to take for me to get out.

 
We both highly recommend this museum. Yes, I'm a World War II history buff, but Joan isn't, so her recommendation is crucial. We only saw one sign of a dissatisfied customer.

Then again, this may have been the guy waiting behind me in line to climb into that cockpit. It was that long a wait.

After we stopped naval gazing, we headed back to the wet roads to continue our journey west. After some futile drives along the shoreline, in which we could barely see water, we headed back inland and  toward Mobile, Ala. The weather cleared a bit as we pulled into Fairhope, Ala., so we let the boys out the car so Fred could pee on Hank's head.

We finally ran into some luck as we crossed the long bridge into Mobile at dusk. The heavy clouds broke just enough for some sun to peek through, making for great lighting conditions. The city's skyline against the gray sky was stunning, as was the presence of the imposing USS Alabama on Mobile Bay. It was too late for us to visit the park, but Joan did snap this cool shot (from a moving car, no less).

We spent enough time in Mobile to eat and to decide we liked the town. But we needed to keep moving, so after dinner -- and a dog walk in one of the city squares -- we got back on the road. (Great piece of Mobile trivia: Many of the closing interior scenes of "Close Encounters of the Third Kind" were filmed there, at the Brookley Field Industrial Complex outside of town. The exteriors were, of course, filmed at Devils Tower in Wyoming).

One of the goals on a journey like this is to stay off the interstates -- of which Charles Kuralt once aptly wrote, "Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel from coast to coast without seeing anything." So we hopped off I-10 just past Pascagoula, Miss. -- which means "bread eaters" for those who were also curious about this odd name -- and hit scenic U.S.-90, which took us through Biloxi, Gulfport and Bay St. Louis, all towns that were devastated by Hurricane Katrina.

From there, it was back onto I-10 and into New Orleans, where we got in, walked the dogs and decided to call it a night.

ROAD SCRAPS

• The aforementioned Gulfport is also the birthplace of one Brett Favre. As a slightly insane Jets fan, I was never in favor of the trade that brought the mad gunslinger to New York last season, and while the deal admittedly looked good at midseason, the end of the Jets' season was typically Shakespearean, and thankfully, Favre chose to retire. So I chose to ignore the fact I was driving through his birthplace -- because, hey, he's a nice guy -- and I ignored it when we drove past Kiln, Miss., where he was raised.  But as we were getting closer to meeting back up with I-10, we saw a "Detour" sign that told us to leave U.S.-90. So, being good citizens, we obliged, and soon found ourselves in some pretty desolate territory, with no lights in sight. Joan suggested that maybe we should turn around, ignore the "Detour" sign and plow ahead. I agreed, and we returned to U.S.-90. Seeing no reason not to ignore the "Detour" sign, we shot past it and encountered no trouble. So imagine my surprise this morning when I was checking Google Maps to try and find the name of the highway we were on, only to discover we'd been driving into oblivion -- like the 2008 Jets -- on Favre Road! The car nav called it by its formal name -- Mississippi Route 604 -- but I now know the truth, and can never thank Joan enough for what surely was a life-saving decision. Had we continued, we certainly would have been intercepted by something.
  
• We were both surprised by how many casinos line Biloxi's Beach Boulevard. It's got a short stretch that makes you feel like you're in Vegas. And, yet, smack in the middle of it all is Beauvoir, the location of the Jefferson Davis Home and Presidential Library. This beautiful, stately old mansion sits right in the midst of the chaos that is Beach Boulevard. It felt a bit out of place, though admittedly, not as much as when I was able to see a McDonald's from Red Square in Moscow.
  
• Of all the places the American University men's basketball team could have been sent, Philadelphia was always low on the list. Going to Philly would mean driving all the way back home, which is something that would throw us way off schedule. As a result, the FHMA Tour will not be taking a detour to Philadelphia, where the Eagles are now forced to play Villanova in its backyard. What crap. Guess I'll just need to see where AU is ends up in the Sweet Sixteen.
• One of the places we skipped on our drive through Alabama was Lambert's Cafe in Foley. Its claim to fame: It's the only restaurant in the United States that, when you order a roll, the wait staff throws it at you. Seriously. Is this really the best selling point for an eating establishment, the fact they turn food into projectiles? Reminds me of this hilarious SCTV skit featuring Bill Murray. 
• Why, every single time you want to get gas these days, does the payment process at the pump have to include the "Do You Want a Car Wash?" question? Is a car wash an impulse buy for anyone else? I'm usually already annoyed I've had to waste five minutes to fill up the tank. But I can't tell you how many times I've thought I'd filled up the tank, only to come back to find out the pump is hanging on the car wash question. Yes, I am anal.
• In Gulf Shores, Ala., we passed B&L's Happy Shak, billed as a hippie boutique. Maybe I'm just perpetuating stereotypes here, but I don't draw a natural association between Alabama and hippies. Is there a subculture here I'm missing?
• Reader Jason Manning mentioned that, when writing about our passing through Fort Walton Beach, I failed to mention that's the home of Heisman Trophy winner Danny Wuerffel, who led the Florida Gators to a national championship in 1996. I didn't forget. I just wanted to stick to mentioning athletes who had professional careers of note. :-)  By the way, we did drive Danny Wuerffel Way -- a small portion of U.S.-98 that commemorates each of Danny's 12 NFL touchdowns, though presumably, not his 22 NFL interceptions.
• Lots of police activity along our route yesterday. We saw a bad car accident in Foley, Ala.; a man being worked on by paramedics outside his car at a McDonald's in Ocean Springs, Miss. (ordered the Big Mac Double Cheeseburger, perhaps); and saw cops trying to rescue a car mired in sand on the beach in Pass Christian, Miss. We hope this is not a sign of things to come.

 

MUSIC REPORT

• Random iPod shuffle song of the day: "Training," by Elmer Bernstein, from the soundtrack for "The Magnificent Seven." Yes, more film music. But if you're not a film music fan, and are willing to give it a shot, "The Magnificent Seven" is a great soundtrack to start with. The theme is one of the most famous in movie history, and in general, it's a terrific score. Not to mention the fact the movie is one the best Westerns ever made, though the movie that inspired it -- "The Seven Samurai" -- is even better.
• Most-played albums: Feeling a little fatigue again toward the end of the drive last night, I jacked up the volume, and played some "Back in Black," by AC/DC; "Led Zeppelin I," by Led Zeppelin; and "Boston," by Boston.

MEAL REPORT

• Lunch: Jerry's Drive-In, Pensacola, Fla.: This place was a lot easier to find in the daylight, and also because we now knew it wasn't, despite its name, actually a drive in. In fact, it's a teeny hole in the wall with room for about 20-30 people at any give time. We sat at the counter, and Joan got a shrimp salad she was wholly unsatisfied with. I did get one of the burgers that Jerry's is known for, and thought it was pretty good, but no Five Guys or Hudson's Hamburgers. I also got a side salad instead of fries. Grrrr. Jim Nutrition Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5). Burgers are fine if you don't load them up with toppings, and the side salad substitution adds a half-star. Restaurant Rating: 3 stars (out of 5).
• Dinner: Wintzell's Oyster House, Mobile, Ala.: This place was recommended by Roadfood, and by multiple readers, making it an easy call for our one Mobile meal. We started with a dozen fried oysters and raw oysters, and I thought they were terrific. Joan was less impressed. We then decided not to have oysters as a main course, which was probably a mistake. I had a chilled seafood plate, which was fine, and Joan had some she-crab soup and a salad she thought were pretty unremarkable. The place has a great atmosphere, however, and a very social feel. Jim Nutrition Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5). Yes, I did have a few fried oysters, but everything else was healthy. Restaurant Rating: 3 stars (out of 5). However, I think this might have been user error more than anything; when a place is called "Oyster House," you should get as many oysters as possible.
• Weigh-In Note: OK, we're lame. When we valeted the car last night, we forgot to get the scale. If we take the car out today, we will make sure to grab it and do the dreaded Jim weigh-in.

HOTEL REPORT

• W New Orleans - French Quarter, New Orleans, La.: Yes, we're in the lap of luxury again. This excellent little hotel -- where we've stayed a number of times -- is smack in the middle of the Quarter and puts us in walking range of a ton of great New Orleans sites. The rooms are small, but the bed is very comfortable and the room full of amenities, such as an iPod player and DVD player. Plus you can hear a little of the French Quarter in action, which I happen to like. Rating: 4 stars (out of 5).
• Bonus W French Quarter Story (excerpted from the 2003 Fred Takes America tour):
  • We decided to take Fred on a stroll down Bourbon Street. But before we did that, we wanted to take him for a quick pee. So we walked out of the hotel and Joan innocently asked the valet parking guy, "Do know where we can find some grass?" The guy got a quizzical look on his face, and was thinking for quite some time. After about 10 seconds of uncomfortable silence, I realized a little clarification was necessary. "Uh, for the dog to pee on." At that point, he says, "OHHHH! Yeah, make a right and go one block." We both laugh, and wonder whether he was planning on answering the question he thought we were asking.

TRAVEL WEB SITE OF THE DAY

• CivilWarTraveler.com: If you're a Civil War nut like me, this site is a great help. Only downside: the search stinks.

COMMENT OF THE DAY

From Matthew Greenberg:

• I enjoy the irony that, while working to lose weight and get in better shape, you opted not to check your progress because walking three flights of stairs back to the car to get the scale was too taxing.

Ken Sands made reference to the same point. Nicely played, both of you. Did I mention it was drizzling at the time as well? :-)

UPCOMING PLAN (subject to change)

• Today: New Orleans, and a Katrina disaster tour.
• Tomorrow: Back to Mississippi, including Vicksburg and the Natchez Trace Parkway.
• The Day After Tomorrow: The Elvis Tour, including Tupelo and Memphis.

BONUS BEAGLE PHOTO

Hank wanders a town square in Pensacola, Fla., wondering how he got himself into a position where he was wearing a raincoat (with a hood, no less). In Joan's defense, I will acknowledge putting this rain gear on the dogs makes the car a lot cleaner and less musty-smelling. There, I said it.

BONUS ST. PATRICK'S BEAGLE PHOTO

 
Happy St. Patrick's Day, everyone! And what better place to be than New Orleans?

Comments

[Psychln]

Jim? Can you say Michael Dukakis? I don't need to see you get in our out to get the joke. Not funnier than grown man in pink bunny suit mind you.

[rick knickerbocker]

Being a Missouri boy, I never knew there was a Lamberts outside of the Show Me State.

It's birthplace is Sikeston, MO (we have so little to be proud of):

http://www.throwedrolls.com/about_lamberts.html

[Chet Rhodes]

GET THE SCALE -- GET THE SCALE..
: )

[natemk]

Hippies and Southerners have had a lot of time to mend fences since "Easy Rider," Jim.

I still wouldn't recommend New Orleans' cemeteries for your acid trip, though.

[Ellen Zangla]

All that rain is making *Joan's* raincoat purchase for the boys look smarter and smarter...did I mention how bad Homer smelled yesterday after his raincoat-less venture in the rain?! I love the St. Patrick's Day pictures, too.

[L'OrIlana]

I am noticing a recurring theme of Joan not being impressed by the food. This makes me second guess my idea to have you over for a meal in Park City this time if you make it this way. I'm thinking she's only enjoyed one of your meals so far? Maybe your book isn't such a great find......

[Woody]

Joan qualifies as a hippie in Alabama.

[Barry]

They actually bookend the 5 minute tank filling intermission with the even more annoying “Please Enter Your Zip Code” prerequisite – Jesus Christ I just want to fuel up my car and go! What’s next… an optional “Refer a Friend” request?

[Carmen]

For some reason, limericks have been popping in my head all day, and your St. Paddy's Day beagles have inspired another.

A couple named Joan and Jim/took beagles Fred & Hank with them/on a road trip they'll go/reporting what they know/the dog photos are really the gems!

Corny, yes, but I'm going to blame the green margaritas. :)

[David Aldridge]

Love the W in Nawlins. Right across the street from Harrah's, in case you want to do some...eating...
While you're down there, take 10 minutes to drive down through the Lower Ninth. Don't recall if you'd said you'd seen it, but if you haven't, it's so sad and chilling. Haven't been there in about a year but when I went there you could go 15 minutes, block after block, without seeing another living human.

[Pam Williams]

check out the tin soldier in the old french quarter - our friends Rosie & Mike Wohl own it (Rosie was a high school of friend of Jack's) Love, Pam & Jack & Boys & Dogs

[Pam Williams]

When we were in New Orleans, we went on a swamp boat tour, approved by AAA - we expected a nature tour, but instead had a tour guide who dubbed himself "The Love Machine" and proceeded to show us where all of his aunts, uncles, cousins and in-laws and out-laws lived along the swamp. At first we were taken aback, knowing how much we paid for six tickets, but we had a blast and would highly recommend the tour to anyone who has a good sense of humor. It was a really relaxing boat ride, too. And, the gift shop was great - we picked up a copy of a Cajun Red Riding Hood story there.

[Sonja]

Ummm, does Joan know you have a dude named Jon on the trip with you?

Joan and seafood seem to have gotten off on the wrong foot. Perhaps she should go seafood free while you're french fry free. Just a thought!

[Amy]

If you go to Graceland - which I highly recommend - see if you can get one of the limited Elvis Reese’s Peanut Butter and Banana Cups. It's quite a sugary experience (although I don't recommend eating more than one cup per sitting if you don't want to go into shock).

http://www.amazon.com/Reeses-Elvis-Peanut-Butter-Banana/dp/B000XUR276

Also, if you stop in Nashville and want a yummy breakfast, check out the Pancake Pantry.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/pancake-pantry-nashville

[Mark Potts]

Wednesday's Top 10 Excuses For Missing The Weigh-in
10. Had to detour to check out a really good burger joint owned by a former NFL quarterback
9. Gambled scale away at Harrah's in New Orleans
8. Scale buried under dogs' emergency backup alternate rain gear
7. Worried that weigh-in footage could show up on YouTube
6. Lost time filling out 1,000 NCAA brackets with every combination of AU making it to the Final Four
5. Trying to stick with Civil War motif, and scales just aren't period-authentic
4. Lost two hours trying to figure out just which Pink Floyd album the iPod was shuffling
3. Scale buried under collection of every edition of Road Food
2. It just seems a pity to weigh oneself after a great dinner in New Orleans
1. Fred and Hank ate the scale

[Dan Cusimano]

AU's Sweet 16 game against Duke will be in Boston.

[Tammy Kennon]

I would like to nominate the boy-in-the-yellow-hat photo as Best in Show, so far. Nice, Joan.

[Keith]

You could have ejected instead of making that poor guy fall asleep. Hope you do something fun for St. Pat's!

[Rebecca]

First off, Mark Potts, loved the Top Ten list -- well done.

2nd -- you saw azaleas in AL! I do miss being in the South when the azaleas bloom so much earlier than in DC. Nice.

[anchorbend]

I highly recommend Jacques-Imo's in New Orleans--great alligator cheesecake! Little pricey, but delicious. Or Mandina's for a more neighborhoody feel and turtle soup.

[Esther]

I found you from Andrew Sullivan's blog. Fred and Hank are so cute! I like dog stories and travel stories, so your blog is the perfect combination. It reminds me of one of my favorite books, John Steinbeck's "Travels with Charley."

[Royelen]

Back in the early 90s, I went to Gulf Shores, Alabama with the goal of visiting my great Aunt Mildred. She was one of the women who did all the jobs the men vacated during WWII. She passed away some years ago and she doesn't have a museum. She did have great stories of climbing telephone polls (sic due to posting limitations) to fix the lines and patrolling the skies with her rifles for German air craft.

[Deanna McNeil]

I too had to comment on the Azaleas - those bright little blooms certainly made my morning where we faced dense fog today.