FHMA Day 5: Dog Day Afternoon

QUICK FACTS

• Where We Started: Charleston, S.C.
• Where We Ended: Savannah, Ga.
• Miles Driven: 121 (1,133 total)
• New States: 1 (Georgia)
• Total States: 4 (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia)

THE DAY'S HIGHLIGHT 

We drove through no natural disasters Tuesday. We saw no dead presidents, saw no famous birthplaces. Today's highlight was much more low-key, but one that reminded us of what is so great about traveling the country: random encounters with perfect strangers.

We started our day with a walking tour of Charleston, which is one of America's great walking cities. The downtown area is compact, there's great architecture everywhere you look, terrific water views and the town just has a wonderful feel. We've been to Charleston a number of times, so we didn't stay long this time, but we would highly recommend it to anyone who hasn't been there.

My favorite area to walk is down by the battery, where you can check out the gorgeous old antebellum mansions that line East Battery Street and lower East Bay Street, all while taking in nice harbor views.

Photo credit: Jim (NOTE: Any photo without a credit is Joan's).

Photo credit: Jim

After walking around downtown a bit, we decided to wander over to Waterfront Park to find some grass for the dogs and get some photos of the gorgeous new bridge that takes you into Charleston. As we headed that way, we spotted a fenced-in dog park and decided to give the boys some off-leash time. There was only one other dog in this area at this point, Colette the Labradoodle. Meet Colette.

To say Colette had some energy would be an understatement. Fred, still a little skittish about rough play after his multiple knee surgeries, did what the Jets usually do the second half of every NFL season: laid down and submitted. Hank also got off to a slow start, but eventually, found his game, and began challenging Colette for temporary dog park supremacy. Hank lost.

Now, I know what you're thinking, and that wasn't what was happening here. Just a snapshot in time of two dogs playing. Dirty minds, all of you. :-) But, as you can see from the photos below, Hank was rarely in a advantageous position.

 

 

After only, I don't know, 30 minutes, Joan finally got a shot of Hank is a proud position.

But what was really enjoyable about the dog park visit was the couple we met, aka Colette's owners. They were a lovely older Southern couple, and we told them we were traveling the country with our dogs. The husband then told us: 1) they also love to travel with Colette, and have an RV they use for those trips, and 2) he also blogs about it (if they're comfortable with it, I can share the URL later; we've been trading e-mails with them since yesterday). I thought that was so cool that we'd randomly bump into fellow dog lovers, travelers and bloggers. For all the great historical, natural and kitschy things you can see in America, sometimes nothing replaces a great old chance encounter with complete strangers.

So the boys had a great time, and combined with the walking tour of Charleston, slept all the way to Savannah. They got their first baths of the trip there as well, since Hank was -- for reasons that are probably obvious by now -- covered in Colette's slobber, and Fred was a bit grungy as well. As soon as they were done with their baths -- and the inexplicable post-bath sprinting around the room that always occurs -- they crashed. Hard. Not too soon after, so did we.

The plan for today: Mostly rest. We're going to walk Savannah a bit more, and find some good restaurants. But, otherwise, we're chilling. God waited until the seventh day to rest; we caved after five.

WILDFIRE UPDATES

• WNCT in eastern North Carolina reports that officials believe a cigarette from a passing car started the wildfire we drove through on Monday. Since we can't credibly say we were nowhere near the scene at the time, we'll settle for the fact that neither of us smoke. Can't speak for the beagles, but the lack of opposable thumbs would seemingly make it difficult.
• Also, our headline "Playing With Fire," was met with some disappointment from readers of this blog. As a former copy editor who once wrote a headline about a dachschund show with the headline "Wieners Take All," I should have been able to do better. Good suggestions from readers included Eddie Sutton's "Touring Inferno" and Rick Blum's "Hot Dogs." So, here's a question: How should I feel about changing headlines after I've posted? Maybe use strikethrough? As a journalist, my feeling is "Playing With Fire" is what I chose, and I should stick with it. But let's be fair; this isn't hard news. Thoughts?

ROAD SCRAPS

• I learned a new skill yesterday: shucking oysters. I quite like oysters, and eat them frequently. But, at dinner last night, they were only offered unshucked. I wasn't quite sure what that meant, to be completely honest. I was more confused when they brought the oysters and no other utensils. I wondered aloud to Joan if I should throw them against the floor or step on them or patiently wait them to open themselves. I asked the waiter if I was missing anything, and he sheepishly admitted that, yes, I was sans a shucking knife and towel. After he brought both, I still couldn't quite make sense of it, so I called him back to give a demo. After feeling like an idiot because, well, it's pretty self-explanatory, I shucked the rest of my oysters without incident or injury. I later suggested to the waiter that maybe the reason this restaurant didn't shuck oysters was because it better preserved the flavor. He said maybe, but the real reason was it takes too much time for the kitchen staff, so they offshore it to the diners. Give that man points for honesty. 
• Yesterday's international destination: Switzerland. I was neutral about it, personally.

MUSIC REPORT

• Random iPod shuffle song of the day: "Also sprach Zarathrustra" by Richard Strauss. What is this, you ask? You may not know the name, but you know the music; it's the famous theme from "2001: A Space Odyssey." It's great music to have playing when pulling up to the Grand Canyon, the Badlands or any other truly awesome sight. We were not at that awesome site when we did the random shuffle yesterday; we were on a particularly boring stretch of highway south of Charleston. The effect was more humorous than awesome. You can see this very short piece performed here.
• Most-played albums Saturday: Fired up a little "Back in Black," by AC/DC, and played some "Monster," by BT. Was mostly on shuffle play the rest of the day.
• There seem to be a lot of comments about what music we're playing in the car, much of it of the mocking variety. There's also a sense we should be taking a geographical musical tour while in the car, and I think that's a great idea. So, tomorrow, we'll start playing some more region-appropriate music. But I have to be honest: I hate country music, so we'll have to stay away from that. But we're headed to Georgia tomorrow, so I'm smelling some Allman Brothers in our future.

MEAL REPORT

• Breakfast: Marina Variety Store Restaurant, Charleston, S.C.: I'm not much of a breakfast guy; so far on the trip, I've just eaten a low-calorie breakfast bar every day. But met up with an old college friend for breakfast at a favorite local haunt right at the Charleston Marina. Jim Nutrition Rating: Had scrambled eggs and toast. 2 stars (out of 5). Restaurant Rating: 3 stars (out of 5). Perfectly solid, though as my friend pointed out, you've got to love a restaurant that delivers pancake syrup in a small plastic container and won't give you a bottle. Small extra credit for this line on the menu: "Our chickens lay eggs any way you want them."

 

• Lunch: Hominy Grill, Charleston, S.C.: This was a Roadfood place that was also highly recommended by Cathy Moscatelli and Robin Lunt, and it didn't let us down, though I was a bigger fan than Joan. A classic Southern joint, the service and the food were excellent. I started with an amazing garden salad -- and you can imagine how good a salad has to be for me to call it "amazing," since I consider eating salads an experience worthwhile only for sustenance. I followed the salad with broiled flounder and sides of green beans and applesauce. Joan had mediocre fried green tomatoes, but followed up with a solid curried chicken salad. Jim Nutrition Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5). Restaurant Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5). I gave it a 4, and Joan a 3, so we averaged it out.

• Dinner: Huey's on the River, Savannah, Ga.: Thanks to a recommendation in the comments by Doris Strachan, we went to this joint right alongside the Savannah River, and really enjoyed it, though we have noticed portion sizes in the South are crazy big. The bad news: I had my first completely bad meal of the trip. I did start with the aforementioned oysters, but then followed it up with red beans and rice, served with Andouille sausage. It was terrific, but it should have come with a referral to a cardiologist. Joan had a delicious shrimp salad, and sweet potato fries. Jim Nutrition Rating: 1 (out of 5). Hey, I didn't have any beers, right? Restaurant Rating: 4 stars (out of 5).

JIM WEIGHT REPORT

• First off, many of you have sent me e-mails (or commented) on what hallucinogen I was on when I published Joan's weight in this blog. Let me be clear: The day I publish my wife's weight to the world without her express permission is the last day I will have that wife. Joan gave her permission for that information to be published. Second, what about me publishing my own weight? I'm the fat one, for god sakes. Anyway, after five days, I decided it was time to weigh myself. I started this journey at a svelte 248, and today's weigh-in has me at... 246.5! (Joan is down two pounds herself, btw).
• My best guess on why I'm losing weight despite not making the best eating decisions: Exercise and not drinking. While I'm not yet doing my exercise regimen in the room, I probably walked two miles yesterday, and we'll probably do the same today. Also, I have had three beers in the five days since we left.

HOTEL REPORT

• Quality Inn Heart of Savannah, Savannah, Ga.: I originally wanted to end our run of mediocre hotels and stay at our favorite chain -- The Westin, which accepts dogs. But it ended up being across the river, and we wanted to be downtown. So we chose this rundown place, but it's a block away from the river and the shops and restaurants that line the streets. The room is passable, the bathroom is tiny and gross and a cleaning woman just told Joan or the dogs -- unclear which -- to "get away from me." Rating: 2 stars (out of 5).

TRAVEL WEB SITE OF THE DAY

• Petfriendly.com: If you ever travel with a pet, this site is extremely helpful in finding hotels, parks, dog-friendly restaurants, etc.

COMMENT OF THE DAY

From Mark Potts, referring to yesterday's note about the dancing man dressed as a Statue of Liberty:

• ... I think I can top Liberty Tax Service: There's a gas station in Leesburg, Va.—one of those multipump jobs, with the little booth i the middle—that has a sign advertising that the guy in the booth will do your taxes for you. You might as well just go directly to Leavenworth and check in for three to five. Somehow, the idea of H&R Amoco doesn't fill me with great fiscal confidence.

UPCOMING PLAN (subject to change)

• Today: A walking tour of Savannah, Ga. And naps.
• Thursday: Some random Georgia sites -- Plains, Warm Springs, Andersonville -- on the way to Atlanta.
• Friday: Friends and family in Atlanta, and watching the AU basketball team play for the NCAAs.

BONUS BEAGLE PHOTO

Fred uses his seductive "looking back" pose in front of Charleston Harbor in Charleston, S.C.

Comments

[J Weis]

Wow. Can't find the words. Tongue feels swollen. Did I swallow a bee? What an inspiring thing (better word?). I want to be your dogs. First time I;ve said that. At first, I thought I was reading something religious, then FEMA related. Then I saw F & H.

[dentuttle]

Hank completely dominated by a Labradoodle. Pathetic, embarrassing, unacceptable. I blame ownership and the coaching staff.

[Shelley Brown]

Hi Joan and Jim,
I admit to free time jealously as I peruse the many details of your trip as I prepare budgets here at my desk. Coincidentally, I have another friend, Jim McMullen, who is riding his bike cross country as you are driving a similar route. Here is his site. http://jambl.net/biketrip/ Maybe you could catch up and meet (or at least check out each other's google earth positiong.) I think he is in Alabama now, but I figure, you've got at least a v-6 right? Have a great time. Shelley

[dena vogel]

Hi Jim and Joan,
Hope to see you at Pam's on Friday. Pam had told me this mornˆng Joseph and I have dental appointments at 1:30pm. We are going to a rock service Friday night with friends. The singers name is Rick Rack (sp). We have a bd party on Saturday and maybe Joseph first baseball game on Sunday. Its supposed to rain.

Love,
Dena, Stan, and Joseph

[Heather]

Here's a travel song for you: "Highway 81" by D.C. band Scythian --
http://www.amazon.com/Highway-81/dp/B0015JKVHM

[Amy]

No one has voted on this yet, but I'm definitely for the strike-through. For some reason, it seems more bloggy to me.

Also, how is it that scrambled eggs and toast get a 2 for nutrition when your get-me-to-a-cardiologist-stat sausage meal got a 1? It seems eggs and toast are pretty mild compared with that. I'm trying to figure out the scale for the nutritional section. What would be a 5?

[eddie sutton]

DON'T change your headlines! They are perfect and my idea was just silliness. Yer the writer - I'm the pixel-pusher. The LAST thing I should do is make you feel like Hank after his encounter with the Labrawhateverthatwas. However, I did notice the nod to hollywood with today's headline - nicely done!

Music note: Forget about "country" - you can rock in the South with artists like Tom Petty, REM and B-52s. If you think you're not TOO far from Tennessee, try the obscure Webb Wilder with some GREAT drivin' tunes - check 'im: http://www.webbwilder.com/

[Elliott Gordon]

Jim, Joan - Given that I lived in Atlanta for five years, here is my contribution: http://www.originalpancakehouse.com/ ... I know you aren't much for breakfast, but nothing beats their fresh strawberry waffle in the morning. Mmm.

And if you want lunch/dinner and like Mexican, this place was great ... we ate there every Friday night ... chicken fajitas ... http://www.losbravosmexicanrestaurant.com/ ...

And of course there is always the boring, yet reliable, Atlanta Bread Company http://www.atlantabread.com/ for soup/sandos.

Continued safe travels!

[Tammi Marcoullier]

I think it was brilliant and wonderful that you posted real weights! I've been in Joan's range with very similar goals (achieved!) and you got major brownie points for pointing out that she is fit! Too many people think all women should be a buck twenty-five in order to be considered in shape and they really have no idea...
Y'all are both gorgeous :) Enjoy the Southern hospitality!

[Scott lunt]

Robin and I just took a trip through Charleston and Savannah. One of my favorite places was Fort Pulaski, which is just south of Savannah by 15 miles or so. Yes, it's a fort... Yes, it's civil war. But it was so interesting to see the cannon marks in the walls of the fort.

[Nancie]

I am loving this blog.

[Ellen Zangla]

My dogs run around like crazy on the rare occasions they get bathed. I think they want to get their scent back, although I doubt Homer wanted to get all of his scent back when he got skunked a few weeks ago.

http://www.my-dog-care.com/dog-bath.html

[Jim Brady]

Amy, 1 is a meal where I make all bad choices. 2 means I could have done better, but not a artery-clogger... 5 would be a salad, grilled fish and no beer. :-)

[Liz Kelly]

Georgia music, you say?

How about a little R.E.M.? Or, for something a little less over-played, Athens's other band (no, not the B-52s): The Woggles:

http://www.thewoggles.com/html/news.html

[D. Wilensky]

Dear Jim & Joan-

I am a life-long dog lover and my daughter has two beagles..I absolutely loved all the pictures of Frank and Fred and enjoyed reading about your adventures..It can't be too easy travelling & sightseeing with your doggies but it sounds like you are having a grand time!!! Good luck -- A dog-crazed New Yorker