QUICK FACTS
- Where We Started: Palo Alto, Calif.
- Where We Ended: Palo Alto, Calif.
- Miles Driven: 76 (11,750 total).
- New States: None.
- States So Far: 19 (Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, Tennessee, Arkansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, California)
THE DAY'S HIGHLIGHTS
After a few busy days on the road, we began our weekend in the Bay Area by sleeping in. We had no plans until dinner, so after stumbling out of bed, we decided to get Fred's paw checked out and then wander around downtown Palo Alto.
The day began with the first real fight of the trip, one filled with fury and followed by much sulking before the eventual reconciliation. Luckily, it wasn't between Joan and me, but Fred and Hank. The dogs get fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the early evening. Joan has pre-packaged bags of food ready, so all she has to do is open the Ziploc bag the food is in and the dogs do the rest. Usually, they are respectful of each other's food. But, on this day, something went awry and suddenly there was growling and biting. After we broke up the fight, Fred sulked.
Fred sulks in the corner of our room at the Garden Court Hotel, as Hank looks to make amends. We don't know how the fight started, so have no idea what's going on here.
Eventually, the dogs started "talking" to each other once again, and all was well. I have no idea how dogs communicate, but watching this little tiff was hilarious.
Soon, it was off to get Fred's paw looked at. Although he'd done some three-legged hopping and tender walking when we were in Death Valley, he seemed largely recovered, so we weren't panicking. We found a vet a mile away, and decided we should walk there for two reasons: 1) so we could get some exercise, and 2) so we would wear out the dogs, since we planned to leave them in the hotel room to have a canine-free lunch. So we walked a mile, and finally found the address we were looking for. Only problem: It wasn't the address where the vet was currently located. Damn you, Google! We soon found out the new location was on the same street... a mere four miles away. So, with only 20 minutes before our wedged-in appointment, we came up with a brilliant plan: I would leave Joan and the boys at the old location, make a hasty one-mile walk back to the hotel, get the car and pick them up and head to the vet's new location. There was no way we were going to make our 1pm appointment, and the vet was clear that, after 1:30pm, our window to get Fred in was closed. So I busted my tail back to the hotel, sped back to pick up Joan and the dogs, and blew down Old Camino Real to the vet. We made it by about 1:15pm, and the vet was nice enough to take us. I decided to wait in the car, since we didn't want to bring Hank into the vet, and frankly, I was tired. But Joan filled me in on what was an interesting visit to the vet.
The vet was an older gentleman with the coldest, unblinking blue eyes Joan had ever seen. But Fred seemed non-plussed, and was quite calm as this guy checked his paw. The diagnosis: an infection, probably from a burr or someting else that had penetrated his paw at one of the national parks we went to last week. The prescription: Soaking the paw, and an antibiotic for one week. Prognosis: Full recovery. Honestly, we were not expecting anything serious, but it was good to hear that Fred could now be upgraded from questionable to probable.
During this exam, Joan chatted with the good doctor, and it came up that we were thinking of going to Alaska on this trip. He asked if we had a medical certificate for the dogs. Joan brought the rabies certificates and immunization records for both dogs on the trip, but was never able to discern whether that's what the vet was talking about, as he just kept talking as if Joan wasn't there. He mused we might have trouble getting the dogs into Canada. Joan told him we'd taken Fred across the Canadian border a number of times on the 2003 trip, and they didn't ask us for any paperwork. Once again, he continued talking as if Joan had not spoken, and suggested that we would also probably have trouble getting into Alaska. When Joan asked why, he finally stopped to listen, and then responded, "Well... It's Alaska!" Joan then pointed out, just in case he'd missed it, that Alaska had been a U.S. state for quite some time, and inquired why the rules would be different there. He said nothing, handed Joan a prescription and ushered her to the door. If this had been anything more serious than a gimpy paw, we probably would have gone to another vet.
The rest of the afternoon was filled with errands so minor they're not even worth mentioning here. But suffice it to say we were happy to finally have the world back in order: four good tires, two healthy humans and two healthy dogs.
ROAD SCRAPS
- During our walk down Palo Alto's main drag, University Avenue, Fred suddenly reared up and backed off, as if he was scared of something. We couldn't figure out what it was, until I saw what store we were in front of: The Loving Hut, a vegan cafe. Fred is an inveterate meat eater, so this may have been his form of protest. As a result, we did not bring him in for an avocado BLT, raw celery foot fettucine or the tofu ice cream. Shockingly, I also chose to bypass The Loving Hut.
- At lunch, we were sitting next to a table full of high-school kids at the sushi place we went to. Now, I don't remember high school real well, but when you went to lunch with your high school friends, was sushi usually on the list of options? Anyway, one of the young men at this table, in an effort to impress his lady friends, began a long monologue about sushi and some sushi best practices. He implored the girls to use the soy sauce, because "sushi is very dry, and if you don't dip it in the soy sauce, it dehydrates you." Not knowing any better, they immediately complied. Now, I don't know much about sushi, but it seems to be that dipping sushi into something as salty as soy sauce would hardly be a defense against dehydration, but maybe I'm missing something. I guess it would have been too simple to suggest to the girls that they get some water with their sushi. Ah, to be young again.
MUSIC REPORT
- Random iPod shuffle song of the day: "Shine," by Django Reinhardt. From the Ken Burns Jazz compliation I have, this is one of the better-known songs from the Belgian guitarist credited with creating the genre of Gypsy jazz. I don't know Reinhardt well, but one of this blog's readers does. Web genius Adrian Holovaty, who I once worked with at washingtonpost.com, is a huge Reinhardt fan, so much so that when he served as one of the lead developers for a Web application framework while working at lawrence.com, he managed to get that new framework named Django. Reinhardt died at the young age of 43, but is still a major influence among classical guitarists. By the way, Adrian isn't just a Django fan and Web god, he's also an accomplished guitarist himself. Check out some of his guitar-related YouTube clips.
- Most-Played Albums: We weren't in the car very much on Friday, but during our drive home from dinner, I violated one of my night-driving rules by playing Pink Floyd. While we'd been at dinner, some music was playing at the restaurant that reminded me of "Echoes," a side-long tune from "Meddle," so I decided I had to hear it. It's exactly the kind of tune you shouldn't listen to while driving late at night, but since we only had 40 minutes in the car and were both wide awake, I figured it was OK. And we did make it to the hotel safely. But not before Joan commented on how weird another song from that album -- "One of These Days" -- sounded. I told her to wait a few seconds, at which point the only words of the song are uttered: "One of these days, I'm going to cut you into little pieces." Not surprisingly, this did not change her opinion of the song's oddness.
MEAL REPORT
- Lunch: Miyake, Palo Alto, Calif.: We got this recommendation from the hotel, and it was the first blemish on the Garden Court. The place was cute, and had a funny Silicon Valley theme -- they had Google rolls, HP rolls, etc. And my sushi was fine; I had New York rolls and the Palo Alto rolls. But Joan's fried tofu was not great, and her salmon rolls were downright nasty. I know, because, after I said my rolls were fine, she made me taste one. Tasted like motor oil. Our edamame and miso soup were also tasteless. Jim Nutrition Rating: 5 stars (out of 5). Figures, right? I finally eat a perfect meal, and it sucks. Restaurant Rating: 2 stars (out of 5). Joan wouldn't even feed her leftover rolls to the dogs. When they asked whether we wanted to box up Joan's leftover rolls, she wanted to say, "Yes, and please ship that box someplace far, far away where it can't hurt anyone."
- Dinner: Blue Agave Club, Pleasanton, Calif.: We went to Pleasanton to have dinner with Polly Clark, Joan's friend from college, and her husband, Kevin. We ate at the Blue Agave on the 2003 trip, and enjoyed it, and had the same excellent experience on Saturday. I had the seafood echiladas and way too many chips and salsa, and Joan enjoyed her grilled shrimp with spinach, corn and rice. Jim Nutrition Rating: 2 stars (out of 5). The enchiladas had seafood, and that's about all the good I can come up with. But I averaged a 3.5 for the day, right? Restaurant Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5).
HOTEL REPORT
- Garden Court Hotel, Palo Alto, Calif.: Other than a bad lunch recommendation, the hotel continued to be a great choice. Hotel rating: 5 stars (out of 5).
COMMENT OF THE DAY
From Joan Burnett:
-
In all honesty, I have to say I have much admiration for you guys and your relationship. If this stuff had happened in my "house".... d-i-v-o-r-c-e. Not that it was anyone's fault (um... except maybe that whole jack thing), but we'd be at each other's throats by now! LOL! Hope the rest of your travels are less eventful but just as fascinating for you and your devoted readers.
UPCOMING PLAN (subject to change)
- Monday: Joan will speak to Polly's class of third graders in Castro Valley, Calif., and Jim has some non-trip-related appointments in San Francisco.
- Tuesday: Off to Yosemite National Park, and hopefully, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park.
- Wednesday: Up into Oregon, and toward Crater Lake.
BONUS BEAGLE PHOTO
I decided to snap some random photos while driving (and without looking at the subjects), and netted one good one, as Hank tries to figure out what I'm doing and Fred sniffs the camera in Death Valley. (Photo by Jim)
We needed a medical certificate for Ozzy when we flew from Atlanta to Connecticut last summer. Perhaps the vet thought you were flying to Alaska.
My folks thought Fred and Hank were so well-behaved!
Take care, Pam, Jack, boys and dogs
Posted by: Pam Williams | April 27, 2009 at 04:48 PM
Please be sure to tip the headline writer! Summarizing all your brilliant writing in a few words is a tall task, yet the headline is just as enticing as the rest.
Posted by: David Heyman | April 27, 2009 at 05:13 PM
My thought on the tiff between the dogs is this: Fred is at a disadvantage with his paw. It probably bothers him more than he lets on. I would guess he was taking some of that out on Hank and maybe felt the need to assert himself so Hank wouldn't take advantage of his injury. I know that is what happens in my house when one of the dogs is not feeling well - we end up with tears and hurt feelings, and often some blood because my pup Jenny is a vicious beast when she loses her temper.
Your photo of Fred in the corner is completely heartbreaking. Poor Fred. However, I am guessing Hank is not as dumb as all that after all (your traveler profile, I believe) ... he is clearly using the mirror to give Fred the impression he has Fred surrounded. Pats to Fred (and Hank).
Posted by: Joan | April 27, 2009 at 05:14 PM
"Ah, to be young again."
You're ef'n nuts, if that wasn't already apparent.
Posted by: dentuttle | April 27, 2009 at 05:15 PM
Dogs in Canada
http://www.consular.canada.usembassy.gov/enter_canada.asp
Pets
If you bring a pet dog or cat at least three months old from the United States, you must have a certificate to show that the animal has been vaccinated against rabies within the last three years. The certificate has to be dated and signed by a veterinarian, and it must identify the animal by breed, age, sex, coloring, and any distinguishing marks. Animal tags are not acceptable in place of certificates.
If you bring a pet dog or cat under three months old from the United States, or a guide dog from any country, you do not need a certificate, but the animal has to be in good health when it arrives.
See also, the U.S. Customs regulations regarding pets and wildlife.
Dogs must be vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days before entering the United States. This requirement does not apply, however, to puppies less than three months of age or to dogs originating or located for at least six months in areas designated by the U.S. Public Health Service as being rabies-free.
http://www.dogfriendly.com/server/travel/info/customs/travelcustoms.shtml#canada
Posted by: Mary Lou White | April 27, 2009 at 05:20 PM
Thanks Mary Lou -- We do have the rabies certs. so we should be set. And Joan, I love the idea of the suprisingly wiley Hank -- "surrounding" Fred by using the mirror.
Posted by: Joan Brady | April 27, 2009 at 05:41 PM
Reason for Dogs in Canada precautions - in order to drive into Alaska from the US, it may be necessary to go through Canada. The folks there are really nice, but they're not actually in one of the 50 US states, and they may politely ask for things like passports and good doggie certificates. It's a holdover from that last (scary) administration in DC, so please don't hold it against the Canadaians!
Posted by: Charlotte-Anne Lucas | April 27, 2009 at 05:46 PM
Poor Fred sulking. I swear, those dogs're human.
Posted by: Rocci Fisch | April 27, 2009 at 05:55 PM
Was the doctor's name Archie Graham by chance? Did he also answer to "Moonlight" Graham? This would explain his confusion about Alaska being a state, as it did not enter the union until well after his one and only major league appearance in the early 1900s.
h/t The Estate of Burt Lancaster
Posted by: David Aldridge | April 27, 2009 at 07:42 PM
I moved last June to a new state into a house without a fenced in yard. Big changes for me and the dogs. My dogs are used to having a backyard to run in, and Fred the Beagle just zoom-zooms like a crazy man each time he gets outside. Being a Beagle, he must have the fence for fear that his nose will go to ground and he won't look up until he's two states away, or in Lakw Champlain. My new house didn't have a fence (yet), so Fred hadn't had a chance to run in weeks. He started attacking Bailey (his best buddy hound mix) out of the blue and for no reason. This behavior continued on and off until the fence got built. Of course, Bailey has a loooooong memory, and is still afraid of Fred; they don't play like they used to.
That picture of the boys sulking is so sad. Bailey and Fred have been there. Miller, my now 16 year old Lab/Golden mix, just projects his inner Rodney King: "Can't we all just get along?"
Posted by: DENISE V. | April 27, 2009 at 07:49 PM
Since you will in fact be going to Oregon, I'll repost and expand on my northwest recs:
In Portland: The Benson is probably the best-regarded hotel. You might also consider McMenamins, a wonderful chain of brewpubs that has branched off into hotels, and has locations throughout the northwest. Food's good too, if you're not looking for anything fancy.
And I know you've got a no-beer thing going on, but if at any point you're going to break it, this is the region to do it in. A sampler collection, maybe?
As far as activities in Portland are concerned, a walk in the park blocks is always nice. For a real dose of official Portland weirdness, check out the 24-Hour Church of Elvis (http://www.24hourchurchofelvis.com/). The really nice parts are outside of town, so try driving around Mount Hood and making stops at Multnomah Falls (a steep hike, but short -- and worth it) and/or Crown Point.
From Portland, take I-5 north, detour to do some hiking around Mount St. Helens (really fascinating landscape) then jump off at Olympia to circumnavigate The Olympic Mountains. I'm particularly fond of the areas around Hoodsport and Lake Quinault.
Posted by: Chris | April 27, 2009 at 08:05 PM
Agreed, the photo of Fred in the corner is heartbreaking, but we love it just the same. Reminds me of my two...except that when Elvis and Abbey have a fight, he drops on the floor and rolls on his back with a very goofy look that says, "Awww, Abbey....shucks, I was just joshin'..." But to Abbey, things like goodies are sacred and HERS. Period. :)
I concur with the others, as I live about an hour and a half from the Canadian border: you do need paperwork on the "boys". Glad you have it.
Posted by: Tamara & John and their beagles, Abbey & Elvis, from Michigan | April 27, 2009 at 08:41 PM
Interesting tidbit about the song "Shine" -- the Django recording includes the original lyrics, which are thought by some folks to be racially insensitive. Newer recordings tend to use different lyrics.
Despite the lyrics, it's a good tune, though!
Posted by: Adrian Holovaty | April 27, 2009 at 09:56 PM
The photo of Fred (in the corner)and Hank is totally fascinating. I see it opening a whole new world for you in photography: storytelling. There are a whole slew of fine art photographers who do this (and of course their names elude me. You would be great at it!
Posted by: Fran | April 27, 2009 at 10:43 PM
Aw, man. I felt today just like Fred looks in the lead photo, but reading about the Hank-and-Fred tiff just busted me out laughing. Could you keep up this blog full-time? You're way cheaper and more fun than therapy.
Posted by: Jodi Cleesattle | April 27, 2009 at 11:12 PM
If you are venturing about while in Portland you might consider heading about an hour east on Rt. 26 to Wildwood recreation area. Cascade Streamwatch, located at Wildwood, is a riverine environmental education area. there's a fish viewing window, lots of easy to walk paths, great picnic areas (including flush toilets (hooray!). Since I helped to get this thing off the ground and now about 2000 kids go through the center (don't know how many drop in visitors come) I'm pretty proud of the facility and its record. It's a really gorgeous spot and very relaxing and dog friendly.
E.
Posted by: elena daly | April 28, 2009 at 08:25 AM
I burst out laughing at the picture of poor Fred in the corner. My alternative take on it would be that maybe he was punishing himself for being a 'bad dog.'
Posted by: Janet H | April 28, 2009 at 09:44 PM
I LOVE the photo of Fred and Hank after the fight. It's classic! You have really gotten some excellent shots of them throughout the trip too.
If you want a sneak peak into the way dogs communicate, I highly recommend the book "How to Speak Dog" by Stanley Coren. It's a great insight into the ways of doggie communications.
Posted by: Vicki B. | April 28, 2009 at 11:11 PM